Acostumbrándome

To be honest, after meeting my Chilean host family, my worries about them specifically vanished. The only slight disappointment was that I expected my sisters to act more my age, but they were definitely “working young adults” already—they just lived at home. I should have realized this because my Costa Rican host brother last summer was in this same stage of life. This wasn’t too much of a problem though, as I realized that I would just have a different role in the family than I had originally thought. By now–after almost two weeks of living with them–I have settled happily into the role of their younger sister that they joke with, mentor, and look out for. I even gained a big brother of sorts, as my oldest sister has a steady pololo (Chilean slang for “boyfriend”) who is very funny and basically a member of the immediate family.

The bigger challenge once I moved in with my host family was adjusting to Chilean culture in general. My first impression of it was that it was much less tranquila than other Hispanic cultures I was familiar with. It seemed more fast-paced, more lively, with more things always going on than I was expecting (although maybe the characteristics of my specific host family had something to do with that). I guess it seemed more like American culture than I was expecting. This should not have been surprising because of all countries in Latin America, I have known for awhile that Chile is one of the most (if not the most) westernized. All Chileans seem to have stuff to do, just like in the U.S., but it seems like a different kind of busy. When I think of “being busy” in the U.S., I think of an endless grind, running from place to place, doing chores and duties and generally being miserable doing them. Here in Arica, I feel like people are simply “active” about their lives in all aspects. They seem to take the initiative and the time to get together for family events, with friends, etc. as part of their schedules. They do these social/recreational activities in addition to (and sometimes in conjunction with) their jobs, meals, daily chores, etc. They seem generally more engaged with their lives and the people in them as they go about their “daily grind.”

At the same time though, after almost three weeks here, I feel like some aspects of Chilean culture are more extreme than in American culture. For example, drinking/smoking seem like a much bigger part of daily life; the meals are bigger; there is so much meat and fast food and soda; everything is later (like meals and parties); and everyone seems extroverted and talks fast, just to name a few.

On the second night with my family, they hosted an asado (party of friends/family) at our house. Lots of family and friends were invited whom I didn’t know, and I was actually excited because I thought it would be a good opportunity to make friends who were around my sister’s age (which I perceived as close enough to my age). However, much to my disappointment and surprise, I found it very difficult to relate to the younger people at the party. Although they generally didn’t make explicit efforts to include me in their conversations, I don’t think they did this purposely. It seemed like they were just really into what they were talking about and each other (as best friends) that they didn’t get a chance to / didn’t think to do so. I know I would have felt at least slightly awkward in that situation no matter what, since I was the only one who didn’t know everyone and since I’m not a native Spanish-speaker. However, I felt like my huge boot, my newness to the family, and the fact that I don’t drink or smoke set me even more apart. Also contributing to the dynamic was the fact that everyone spoke very quickly, used a lot of Chilean slang, and were talking about topics I didn’t really have a lot to contribute to. Consequently, I mostly just observed what was happening rather than engaging in it, which was an interesting anthropological experience no doubt, but also kind of depressing. As an extrovert, I very much would have liked to interact more with everyone, but I was held back by the intimidating size of the group and my slowly returning confidence in my Spanish skills.

Despite all of this, the night actually ended up being a kick-starter for me in terms of beginning my real adjustment to my study abroad experience here in Chile. By the end of the night, some of the guests had left, so the group was smaller, providing me with the opportunity to talk to a few of my sister’s friends. I gained more confidence once I realized they were sincere and kind and after they complimented me on my Spanish. From this night forward, the kind of flexibility I had developed in Kenya seemed to kick in, and I have since been able to gradually but genuinely settle into my new environment and life. So far…

I am intrigued by the content of my classes, which focus on public health, traditional medicine, and community empowerment. I am relieved that the program does not seem as academically intense as I had originally expected, and I am loving my first reintroduction to free time since I graduated high school.

My ankle is getting stronger, and I have a greater range of motion as each day passes. I am also able to tolerate more and more walking every day.

I have realized that my social outings will depend more on my American peers in my program than my host sisters, who are usually busy working or hanging out with their own friends—again not what I had expected, but also totally fine because I am beginning to form closer bonds with the people in my program. I have also realized that I have very flexible and carefree host parents who either encourage me to stay out later than I do or constantly insist that I bring friends over. I am making progress in my relationship with Tomás, our pesado chihuahua. Sometimes he doesn’t even bark at me when I walk into the room unaccompanied (baby steps).

I noticed an improvement in my Spanish within just the first couple of days of staying with my host family. Their comments about how pleasantly surprised they are that I speak such good Spanish gives me even more confidence to practice speaking with strangers whenever I can (since unfortunately most of my American peers prefer to speak in English when we are talking amongst ourselves).

And I am starting to gain a sense of direction regarding where things are in the city (although not as much as my peers, since I don’t walk around as much as them).

Overall, I am enjoying life pretty well right now (despite coming down with a cold). Reflecting on my experience thus far, I am pretty proud of myself that I have been able to turn such a rushed transition into a successful one (so far), and I hope I continue on the path of making the most of this once-in-a-lifetime experience. I really did care about doing both my program in Kenya and my program here enough to be willing to rush from one to the other. Fortunately, I am pretty happy with how I have managed it so far, so here’s to hoping more good things are to come!

12 Days

*Post actually written 8/28/15*

Kenya to Chile in 12 days. From a summer teaching in an extremely rural community to a semester “studying abroad,” (or “vacationing” according to many college students). This switch was definitely as disorienting as I thought it was going to be. How could it not have been?

Kenya was simultaneously one of the most challenging and enjoyable experiences I’ve ever had. I think that’s because it was an experience that made me feel more integrated into an unfamiliar community than I have ever felt before. I went from very little familiarity with/knowledge of my host community to feeling very much at home in less than two months. I had high hopes for this element of my experience, but I never would’ve believed that I would surpass these expectations. I am so thankful that my DukeEngage experience was one that made me genuinely feel like my life in Muhuru Bay had become my new “normal.” There is really no replacement for that state of being, and no way to fake it or artificially create it. However, that obviously doesn’t mean my experience was easy by any means. The extreme integration I experienced, continuously expanded and sometimes violently pushed the walls of my adaptability to limits that I didn’t think were possible. Yeah it was uncomfortable. Yeah it was frazzling and frustrating and disorienting and overwhelming at times (especially at first). But, it was also meaningful and valuable (and for that reason, enjoyable) all of the time.

I think it was a combination of the length of my stay, the circumstances of my trip, the work I was doing, the amazing individuals I met, and (unfortunately) my privilege that allowed me to feel so beautifully transformed throughout my entire time in Kenya. Not surprisingly, most of the transformative process took the form of learning. I had the opportunity to learn more in this one summer than I ever have through a single experience of my life—concrete skills; flexibility; and endless amounts about myself, teaching, cultural anthropology, Muhuru Bay, global health problems, individual people, etc. The list is endless.

One thing that stands out to me from my trip was the biggest joy and pain I gained: my friendships. Whether with my students, the WISER girls, or the piki drivers, I can honestly say without an ounce of exaggeration that I made closer friendships than I ever could’ve hoped for. You can’t blame me for having had cautious expectations for this part, given that I would only be in Kenya for two months–and in a community that I had so little knowledge of beforehand at that. As an extrovert, I doubt I would have enjoyed this trip half as much without this rewarding element. So why, you ask, did my friendships also constitute the biggest pain? Put simply, relationships like the ones I made in Muhuru Bay are not conducive to a two-month summer program. They are not meant to end because I live in a different country or because we “come from different worlds.” So many people I met in Muhuru treated me like their best friend, their sister, their daughter, and I saw them as the sameso how can I pretend those connections dissipated like the exhaust from our car as I drove away from the community? How do I process the fact that those relationships will be indefinitely long-distance? That I will possibly never see some of those people again? What about the sweet, hilarious, and chatty Renny who lived at the top of the rocky hill? What about Nelson, the aspiring dancer/comedian/artist? What about the rest of my friends who do not have access to the internet or money to contact me via phone? Am I supposed to just forget about them? I sure don’t plan to.

As I tried to quickly process all of these thoughts and doubts, I had at least one comfort. I had written myself a letter at the beginning of the summer about my goals for the program/my experience. Upon receiving the letter back, a sense of joy and deep fulfillment surged through me as I realized that I had achieved every single one of them–even those that I had forgotten I was aiming for. The pride that came from knowing I made the most of my experience like I had wanted to was a great way to conclude my DukeEngage (although an ethical discussion about the question, “Is DukeEngage really supposed to be about me and my goals/success?” is a different story).

As comforting as it was however, no realization like this could give me more of what I really needed upon leaving Kenya: timeI needed time to recover from my various health problems. I needed time to overcome the nostalgia I already felt for my friends and life back in Muhuru Bay. I needed time to reconnect to my life in the U.S. (although there was really no point in that since I was about to leave it again). I needed time to mentally prepare myself to take classes, to meet an entirely new group of people in a completely different country, and to recall the Spanish that had no doubt drifted from me while I was learning Dhuluo and Kiswahili. I needed time for all of this, but couldn’t have it.

So off I went to Santiago, Chile and then to a small city called Arica, Chile, which is serving as my home base for most of this fall semester. My feelings upon leaving were: first, stress (no coherent thoughts); then complete mental disengagement/emotional distancing from the experience I was about to embark on (“What am I even doing?”); and finally, anxiety and nervousness (“Everyone will have been practicing their Spanish all summer,” “I don’t want to be known as ‘the injured one,’” “I didn’t do any of the pre-departure research on Chile I had been planning to do.”)

I am glad to report that I survived the initial phase of my transition. My peers in my program definitely helped me in this process, since soon after arriving, I realized that: 1. Most of them had actually not been practicing their Spanish all summer; 2. They were all willing to see me past my injury; and 3. Many of them reminded me of my friends in Ubuntu (my selective living group back at Duke), whom I know and love.

It’s not like I haven’t face any obstacles though. My first big challenge was physically keeping up with everyone while in my boot. For the orientation excursions we did during the first week, I didn’t want to let my condition hold me back or make me miss out on anything, so I tried to do everything, just more slowly and carefully. Located in the desert of northern Chile, the city of Arica has lots of reddish dirt, beautiful beaches, and a relatively dry, sunny climate. However, Arica also has lots of uneven ground, hills, stairs, and the custom of walking to most places within 20 minutes. At first, this resulted in a lot of pain and exhaustion, so I resigned myself to using a wheelchair in public when possible. Psychologically dealing with how this set me apart both literally and socially was difficult at first, but it ended up not being that bad, especially when my new friends made a point to not make me feel like a burden. However, it did add to my anxiety about meeting my host family. I had the nerves of any study abroad student before living with an unknown family, worsened by my idea that I would not be fortunate enough to end up with a family as amazing as the Costa Rican family who hosted me for a previous program. On top of these things, I thought my new family might resent hosting someone who required additional accommodations.

It seems that God just decided to keep showering blessings on me though because my familia chilena is a perfect fit. Before I even met them, they were sweet enough to write me a letter saying they were excited and anxiously anticipating my arrival. Accompanying the letter was a beautiful leather purse, not a small gift and not one I had been expecting. Upon receiving these gifts, I immediately began to feel better about everything, and rightfully so. I met my two sisters first: Karem and Camila (7 years older and 4 years older than me, respectively). My first impression of them was that they were very extroverted and funny, loving to banter with each other and make jokes. They also seemed like they liked to carretear (go to parties), which was exciting for me because I always love a good dance party and the chance to meet new people.

Then came time to meet the rest of the family… and what can I say? I was immediately charmed. My papá is named Arturo and is the director of a local middle school/high school. My mamá is Silvia, and she works for the local government in the department of import/export taxes. My oldest sister is a nutritionist, and my other sister just graduated from university as a psychologist. My Chilean family is super casual and funny, ironically just like my Costa Rican family and just like my own family, so I have not had a serious culture shock yet. They have two Chihuahuas, a sweet one named Fifi and El pesado (the mean one) named Tomás, who has an inferiority complex. When I arrived to their house for the first time, I felt like I was entering my home, as I was greeted by a personalized welcome sign (featured above), a decorated nametag on the door to my room, my own bathroom, and my own set of house keys. They were all extremely nice, and I think I will get along well with my peers in the program, but we shall see how my adjustment to this new life goes, especially as I deal with my ongoing nostalgia for Muhuru Bay. I am still not quite sure what to expect, as I have really only done orientation activities thus far, but hopefully I will be able to continue transitioning smoothly and putting my enhanced adaptability skills from Kenya to good use! More to come 🙂